When You Don't Need a Locksmith | Save Your Money and Do It Yourself
Steve Marsh explains the door and lock problems that are a five-minute DIY fix, and why an honest locksmith tells you that upfront.
Last Tuesday I got a call from a woman in Petersham. Her front door wouldn't close properly, the latch wasn't catching, and she was worried someone had damaged her lock overnight. I asked her a few questions. Turned out the door was just dropping on its hinges in the summer heat. I talked her through tightening the hinge screws over the phone. Five minutes. No call-out needed.
She was grateful. I'd lost a job. And I'd do the same again tomorrow.
Because here's the thing: a locksmith who will tell you to sort it yourself is the one worth calling when you genuinely can't. I'd rather be the person you trust than the person who takes forty quid off you for turning a screwdriver.
So here's my honest list. The calls I get that don't need me.
The Door That Won't Latch
This is probably the single most common call I field that turns out to be nothing. The latch isn't catching the keep. The door feels wrong. People assume the lock has failed.
Ninety per cent of the time it's one of two things.
First, the door has dropped. Wooden doors in older properties, and there are plenty of those across Richmond Hill and along the Kew Road, swell in summer and drop on their hinges in winter. The latch face no longer lines up with the keep hole. You can often see it if you look closely. The latch is hitting the plate below the hole, not going through it.
Fix: tighten every hinge screw. If they're spinning loose, the thread is gone. Pack the hole with a wooden matchstick and some wood glue, let it dry, then retighten. Takes ten minutes.
Second, the keep has worked loose itself. One screw backed out, the keep has tilted, the latch is catching the edge instead of dropping in cleanly. Again, tighten the screws. Job done.
If you've tried both and the door still won't latch, then call me. But try them first.
The Key That's Getting Stiff
I had a call from a landlord in East Sheen a few weeks back. Tenant couldn't turn the key smoothly, thought the cylinder was dying. The landlord was ready to book a full cylinder replacement.
I asked when the lock was last lubricated. Silence.
Locks need lubrication. Not WD-40, which is actually a water displacer and will dry out your cylinder faster than leaving it alone. What you want is a proper graphite spray or a PTFE-based dry lubricant. Squirt it into the keyway, work the key in and out a dozen times. That's it. A can of the right stuff costs about four pounds at any decent hardware shop.
Most locks go years without anyone doing this. Of course they get stiff. A Yale or ERA cylinder on a Richmond terrace door sees British weather every single day. A bit of graphite every twelve months and it'll outlast the door.
Stiff key, no other symptoms? Lubricate it before you call anyone.
The Hinge Bolt Nobody Knows They Have
This one's slightly different. I'm not telling you not to call me. I'm telling you it isn't broken.
A lot of uPVC doors and some composite doors have hinge bolts, little steel pins on the hinge side that lock into the frame when the door closes. They're a security feature. But people don't know they're there, so when they suddenly feel resistance closing the door, or the door jams slightly on the hinge side, they panic.
It's not damaged. It's doing its job. The hinge bolts are engaging slightly out of alignment because the door has shifted. The adjustment is in the hinges themselves. Most modern uPVC door hinges have three-way adjustment built in, you just need a hex key (usually 5mm) and about fifteen minutes on YouTube and a bit of patience.
I'll be honest: some people don't want to do this, and that's fine. I'm not going to pretend it's complicated when it isn't, but I understand that not everyone wants to crouch in a doorway with an Allen key. If you want me to come out and do it, I will. Just know what you're paying for.
The Lock That's 'Broken' But Actually Isn't
Calls from Ham and the Teddington end of TW11 especially tend to involve older multipoint locks on uPVC doors. The handle goes down but feels floppy. The door won't lock at the top and bottom, only the middle. People assume the lock mechanism has failed.
Often it's just the gearbox worn out after years of the door being slammed. But before you spend £150 to £200 on a Fuhr or GU multipoint replacement, check this: is the door itself closing flush with the frame? A misaligned uPVC door puts enormous strain on the mechanism every time you lift the handle to engage the shootbolts. The mechanism isn't broken, it's being asked to drag the door into the frame before it can lock.
Adjust the door alignment first. There are compression adjusters on the locking side of most uPVC doors. A slight tweak can mean the difference between a mechanism replacement and nothing at all.
If the gearbox genuinely has gone, then yes, call a locksmith. But rule out the alignment first.
When You Actually Do Need Me
I want to be clear. There are plenty of situations where DIY is the wrong call and you need someone qualified on the doorstep fast.
- Lock snapping. If you've had a burglary attempt or you think someone has had a go at your cylinder, don't try to bodge it. You need a TS007 3-star anti-snap cylinder, fitted properly, that day.
- You're locked out and the door is shut. Please don't try to break your own door down. And please don't call one of those vans that plasters the postcodes with cheap flyers. They will destroy your lock, charge you for a poor replacement, and you'll spend twice as much fixing it.
- The lock has genuinely failed internally. You'll know because the key goes in but nothing moves at all, or it turns freely with no resistance. That's a broken cam or driver. That's a cylinder replacement job.
- You want to upgrade. If you're on Richmond Hill or in a period property in St Margarets and you're still running a single-cylinder deadlock from 2003 with no BS3621 certification, sort it out. An Avocet ABS, Ultion, or Mul-T-Lock cylinder with a proper Sold Secure or SS312 Diamond rating is a morning's work and genuinely changes what a burglar can do to your door.
Why I'm Telling You This
I've been doing this long enough to know that the locksmiths who thrive on panic calls, the ones who quote high over the phone and won't give you a fixed price, the ones who upsell a new lock on a door that needed a screwdriver, those are the ones who don't get repeat business.
I'd rather spend two minutes on the phone saving you money than spend twenty minutes on a job you didn't need. Because when your tenant in North Sheen is locked out at 11pm, or someone has had a go at your shop on George Street, you'll remember who was straight with you.
That's the whole thing, really.
If you do need us, Rapid Response covers Richmond and all the TW postcodes. We aim to be with you in under thirty minutes where we can. You'll get an honest price on the call, not a surprise on the doorstep.
Steve Marsh, Lead locksmith
Steve has been on the tools in and around Richmond for over two decades. He has fitted, drilled, picked and sworn at most locks ever sold in the TW postcodes, and he has strong opinions about nearly all of them.
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